The volume of traffic in Hanoi can't compete with New York or San Francisco, but what it lacks in numbers it makes up for in terrifying driving. Humid and sticky, I cling to Krista for dear life. I can barely drive myself around Lincoln, Nebraska without causing a wreck, so her ability to maneuver the rented motor scooter in the haphazard flow of foreign traffic amazes me. I'm half certain that this is how we die, but in less than 20 (heart-pounding, life-affirming) minutes, we've arrived.